design development 3rd assessment piece

Further design thoughts on third assessment piece. On further thoughts the following emerged------ I do intend to use both the blue/green and the purple/blue colourways in the design. The proportions are likely to be one third purple/blue and two thirds green blue. I intend to have a mix of smooth and textured surfaces. I wish to use the textured surfaces to give overall impact to the finished piece. I have experimented with paper compositions in a number of different juxtapositions of the various elements and a selection of these are shown in the six images below. In each image the depth of each individual 'sail 'shape is approx 10 inches while the overall width of the design is between 24 and 30 inches, depending on the configuration. IMAGE 1 In this image there is a series of textured central panels with smooth panels at each end. This uses both colourways and smooth and textured versions of each. This gives good impact at the central third of the panel with the two extremities seeming to fade into the background. IMAGE 2

This uses smooth panels in alternate colourways and a textured band is threaded through the middle of each. This gives less overall impact for the textures than I am trying to achieve. IMAGE 3

This is a placing of an equal mix of textured versions of both colourways in a fairly smooth linear formation. This looks messy and lacks impact points.

IMAGE 4

In this image the background panels are all smooth but they have been arranged in a much more 'jagged' linear formation. A variety of shapes of textured panels have then been overlaid upon their matching smooth colourways with the concentration of purple/ blue in the middle section.

This seems to lead to a loss of definition of shape for the individual elements within the design.

IMAGE 5

In this image there is a similarity to image 4 above but the positioning of the background panels has been levelled out and there is a much more definite 'skyline' in the placement of the background panels. This perhaps gives a greater coherence to the whole but does not give emphasis to the individual shapes. IMAGE 6

In this image the background panels are ,again, smooth but they have been placed in a much more jagged line and their skylines/ foregrounds have been inverted. The background panels have then been overlaid by textured versions of their own colourways in shapes which replicate them but these have been 'teased' out either above or below the mid-line. This gives an element of textured and smooth surfaces across the whole length of the panel. It also gives more definition to the individual sail shapes.

At the moment I am torn between images 1 and 6 .

Images 1 and 6 each , in different ways, seem to combine both smooth and textured versions of both colourways in a pleasing compostion and I know you expressed some concerns in your earlier feedback that trying to achieve this might get too complicated.

In image 1 the impact of the textured panels is concentrated at the central focal point whereas in image 6 it is sustained or continued across the whole surface of the piece.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am still playing with all my paper shapes!!!!!

MOD 5 Chps4 & 6

CHAPTER 4 MAKING HOLES. IMAGE 1 SIZE A3 In the top sample, shapes were cut from layers of bonded organza . The top voids were filled in by metallic thread stitching while the bottom voids were filled by thick rayon shaded thread stitching. Although the voids were exactly the same size the ones filled with the lacy metallic stitching appear bigger in the sample. The bottom two samples were worked on fine cotton lawn layered over brown silk. In the left hand sample the shape was sewn around and the brown silk was then cut away from the reverse side. In the right hand sample the shape was sewn in the same way but this time the white cotton lawn was cut away to reveal the brown silk backing. IMAGE 2 SIZE A4 In the left hand sample a winged needle was used on the top row with a hem stitch and thick blue thread. Lines of dyed gummed silk were then worked over with the same needle and thread. The holes between the lines of silk were made by the winged needle but without any thread in the machine. In the right hand sample a grid shape was sewn using a triple straight stitch on muslin. The muslin was then cut away around the grid lines. IMAGE 3 SIZE A3 The left hand sample uses dyed scrim stitched in a grid pattern with a winged needle. In the blue sample the dyed scrim has been treated with wax and additional threads pulled prior to stitching. The white sample uses layers of undyed scrim , stitched in a grid pattern and then slashed. IMAGE 4 SIZE A4 An oblong of red wool boucle was used with small rectangles of a variety of dyed colours of tissue fragments sewn behind. The red fabric was then cut back and either folded , frayed or rolled to reveal the backing colours.

IMAGE 5 SIZE A4

In this sample lengths of merino wool have been teased apart into a grid pattern and the intersections secured with rayon thread.

IMAGE 6 SIZE A3

At the left hand sided dyed and waxed scim has been used and a pattern has been stitched and cut out.

In the centre top an orange/ red silk has been used a the top in a slashed pattern to reveal the red reverse side. In the bottom orange/red sample the same fabric has been used but every other warp thread has been removed. The reamaining threads were then teased out in a 'slashed' pattern across the weft threads. The top right is the frayed /slashed muslin sample.

The bottom right is a fabric made from a fringed yarn sewn to a nylon net background. The fabric was then slashed from the back between the lines of stitching.

IMAGE 7 SIZE A3.

This sample used a sample of silver/black/grey and white silk lurex as a background.In the centre of the sample is a rectangle of white copy paper with a graphite rubbing made over lolly sticks. Holes were then punched around the edge of the paper and threads frayed from the warp of the background fabric were then threaded through in an arching pattern.

Buckle shapes were cut from black card and these were then either threaded or backed with other black/grey and white fabric pieces. Small diamonds of black and silver silk lurex were then added to the corners.

IMAGE 8 SIZE A3

The top sample has been made from black card. A small square of blue foiled card was then cut and placed in the centre of the backing card. Eyelet holes have been punched in the centre and eyelets inserted. Strands of purple mohair wool were then threaded through the eyelet holes and then were spread out in a 'sunray' pattern. A small triangle was cut out of the background cardboard at each corner and small pieces of silk were then stitched into place behind. Narrow blue silk and velvet ribbon was then wound into notches cut in the corners of the blue foiled card and threaded through holes punched in the black card.

The bottom sample has been worked on painted handmade paper. This was then overlaid with three jewellery making spokes of wire, secured through holes by open silver metal beads and thick silver metallic thread. A series of holes was then punched around the curves of each of the painted shapes. These were then wound in patterns with the silver metallic thread and sequins and beads were used for further embellishment.

IMAGE 9 SIZE A3

In the left hand sample a number of circles of different colours of nylon organza were bonded together at the edges on to a backing of dyed and waxed scrim. Triangles were then cut to differing depths around the circle and folded back to reveal the different colours in the 'sandwich' The tips of the triangles were then melted to fuse them to the edge of the circle. In the centre, some triangles of organza remain while others have been completely folded back to reveal the scrim layer. Fine 'ribbons' were then cut from the organza trimmings and melted/ fused onto the background in the centre of the circle. The sample was then edged in concentric cirles with an automated machine stitched pattern.

In the right hand sample a square of dry needle felted fabric was formed from synthethic mohair and metallic threads. The sample was then teased apart at the edges to leave a lacy border of irregular shapes holes around the firmer felt centre.

IMAGE 10 SIZE A3 In the left hand sample dyed scrim has been worked with a number of patterns of holes to form butterfly shapes. The right hand sample continues the butterfly theme with a variety of methods used to cut butterfly shapes out from the varying layers of the backgroud and to reapply them giving positive and negative formations and a 3D effect.

IMAGE 11 SIZE A3

The top black and white sample has been formed from melted loops of white organza bonded on to a narrow stitched ribbon linking thread.

The bottom left sample has been made from bonded organza and foil fabric shapes being bonded onto a square of turquoise acrylic.

The right hand sample has been formed from two squares of stencil film being bonded together over some dyed threads of gummed silk and silk boucle. The edges of the suare were then cut into by a hot wire and threads woven into the resulting notches. Holes were then melted with a wide tipped soldering iron through all the layers where the threads formed curving patterns.

IMAGE 12 SIZE A3

Layers of fabric were stitched in diagonal lines behind a piece of furnishing brocade and backed with hessian. The resulting fabric was then slashed back to the hessian layer. In some places the motifs in the top fabric were slashed through and, in others , they were left intact. The edges of the layers were then brushed and teased out by a wire brush.

CHAPER 6 SILK PAPERS

IMAGE 13 SIZE 12INS X12 INS

This sample was designed to give some of the transparent/ translucent feel of water. The silk fibres were therefore dyed in a variety of weak dye solutions and then placed in a very fine layer, giving a papery feel to the resulting sample.

The silk threads were overlaid by wavy lines of a fine fringed metallic yarn in increasing depths of indentation.

IMAGE 14 SIZE 12 INS X12 INS

This sample retains the 'water' theme but was designed to be much more robust in feel and construction. The silk fibres were therefore dyed to much deeper colours and dyed silk rods, velvet and silk ribbons were added to the mix.

IMAGE 15 SIZE 8 INS X 8 INS.

In this sample two undyed silk hankerchiefs were used to form a sandwich for a series of blue and cream machine embroidered butterflies resulting in a very delicate , fragile silk fabric.

IMAGE 16 SIZE A4

This sample again used silk handkerchiefs as the underlying fabric but thick layers of throwsters waste in gold and black were then placed over the top. The first layers were glued down with CMC but then the net top sheet was removed before the sample was completely dry and further layers were added which were not re-glued. This gives a loose feel to the resulting fabric and leaves silk threads hanging from the surface.

The sample was then stitched over with skeleton leaves, black organza petal shapes and black beads. A machine embroidered black and gold butterfly was then added as decoration.

Time taken 17 hours.

Further design work 3rd assessment piece

IMAGE 1 SIZE (16INS x13 INS) Painted fabric background. IMAGE 2 (SIZE A3) Textured paper experiments I used a variety of papers and methods to achieve textures and various degrees of transparency within paper shapes and cut outs . On the left, narrow strips of painted paper were threaded through dyed nyon mesh in the top shape while, in the bottom shape, wider strips of painted paper were overlaid with the painted nylon mesh. In the long sample, to the right of the above , painted papers were formed in a curving wave shape at the top and then overlaid with nylon mesh in deeper wave shapes. At the bottom the paper was put through a crimper to create wave shapes. Again, moving right, the top sample was formed by winding strips of painted tissue paper around kebab sticks, removing the sticks, and then gluing them on to a painted paper background. Below this, scraps of painted tissue were torn off and glued on to a painted paper background. Along the bottom, glue trails were painted and applied. On the far right of the sample ,at the top, abaca fibre was painted and glued over pencils to form rolling wave shapes. Once the glue was partially dry the pencils were removed. Underneath this are two more painted tissue paper samples , one with horizontal and one with vertical 'waves' formed in a crimper. At the bottom right a tissue paper sample has been formed into a curve and glued on to from a 3D shape.

IMAGE 3 (SIZE A3)

Dyed thread experiments

This image shows a variety of threads dyed in the proposed colour scheme of the proposed piece to be comprised of sail shaped panels. IMAGE 4 (SIZE 16 INS x 13 INS)

Embroidery method experiments

The dyed threads from the image above were used to experiment with a number of textured embroidery stitches ( echoing the paper experiments) which could be employed in working the sail shaped panels.

Working from the top left these include----

Novelty cotton and silk yarn couched down in zig zags.

Below this ribbon has been used to cover piping cord to create rolls.

Below the ribbon sample is couched gummed silk and curly Wensleydale wool .

The final sample, at the bottom left, is formed from ribbon and mohair yarns stiched to folded painted bondaweb. This has been partially covered by stitched, painted and waxed scrim with pulled threads to give greater transparency.

Across the embroidery experiments there are a number of differing uses of this scrim fabric,some flat stitched and some in curving 3D shapes .

Moving to the right across the sample there is silk noile yarn worked in curves of whipped backstitch.

Below this is a small square sample using commercial stranded yarns worked over cocktail sticks which were then removed after stitching.

Slightly to the right and below this are bands of dyed silk boucle yarn couched down in a rectangle.

Below this the dyed felted cotton boucle yarn has been used to form a boat shape with an openwork scrim sail.

At the top right of the samples, Tussah silk has been threaded through painted nylon mesh.

Below this strips of painted handmade paper have been overstitched with dyed cotton viscose and lurex yarn.