IMAGE 1.Full size paper mockup of back of jacket.
Following your suggestions I have prepared this paper mockup of the back of the jacket in full size. Measurements are therefore --Centre Back Length 26ins, Back width at hip level 22 ins, Sleeve seam ( excluding cuffs 13 ins.)
Mock up shows actual size comparison between border fringe and back triangular panel, Actual size of dragonfly wings and actual size of sleeves. The sleeves have a much more lace like feel than the rest of the garment . The body of the sleeves will be made in screen printed fine organza in a patern to linked to the reed borders ,overlaid with lacy windmill sail panels. The fabric either side of the triangular panels will match that of the front panels and the reed border will surround the whole garment at hip level.
SIZE OF PANEL 15INS AT WIDEST PART AND 18 INS DEEP.
Following my original construction of the corded insert piece, this has now been dyed and overlaid with a green organza. The cording has been oversewn with narrow dyed ribbons to emphasise the lines and to achieve the 'aerial view' of broadland river, lake and meadow scenery The side border of the triangular panels, the segmented dragonfly bodies, has been made from a metallic fabric overlaid with an iridescent toning fabric. It was constructed from a rectangle of the two fabrics stitched together with long running stitches at 1.5 inch intervals . The piece was then gathered along these stitching lines and rolled into a 'sausage'.The gathered segments were then emphasised again with metallic threads wrapped along the stitching lines.
The sleeve sections show the initial screen printing of the organza fabric from which the sleeves will be constructed ,overlaid with paper windmill shapes , actual size. The panels between the sleeve and the dragonfly segmented bodies are filled with the fabric being used for the front panels,the bottom border here is still in paper format but is, again shown actual size.
IMAGE 3 DEVELOPMENT OF FABRIC FOR FRONT PANELS
Following on from my previous post, with the suggestion for using long silk fibres, this has now been further deveoped. The actual body shape of the front has been cut from green silk and a layer of a bondaweb type fabric. The long silk fibres have then been bonded to this by ironing under baking parchment. This gives a softer and suppler fabric to that achieved by a 'silk paper' process . Once the silk'sandwich' was in place a series of stitching and couched threads was laid over the surface and secured through all the layers.This has a number of purposes , both practical and artistic. The added stitching and couched threads gives added strength and durability to the fabric while the patterns achieved give a further feel of the local landscape.
The bottom edge is in the process of being worked with the reed border. The front paper edging , again in actual size, is a pattern for an assymetrical front border to be made by a felting process and dyed to match the colours in the main fabric. The sleeves show the same screen printed organza overlaid with paper windmill sails.
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